Routing a Channel for the Binding

I decided to go with some plastic binding thinking it would be more sturdy.  And to save some work, I decided to not use any purfling.  To cut the channel for the binding, I made a jig that included my router.  The reason for this is because if you just run the router around the edges using the front or back as the router base you will end up with a channel that is not straight.  The panels are not at 90 degree angles with the sides.  So the jig uses the sides as the router guide.

I got the idea for the router jig at this web page:
http://gicl.cs.drexel.edu/people/sevy/luthierie/guitarmaking_guide/binding/binding.html

I started with the piece of wood I used when routing the groove for the rosette.  It was already drilled through for the router base.  I mounted that piece vertically on another piece of wood that I could clamp to the workbench.

Around and in front of the router bit opening is a thin piece of wood that the front or back panel will ride on during routing.  Then coming straight out from there is a piece of wood that the guitar side will sit on as the guitar is rotated through the cut.

I adjusted the cut to where it needed to be and secured the side guide as shown above.  Then I routed a piece of scrap wood and tested the fit with a piece of the binding.

With much hesitation, I ran the guitar through the jig, front and back.  Some spots needed to be hit twice if I did not have the guitar firmly against the jig.  Here's the same piece of the binding sitting in the groove I routed in the back of the guitar.

Finally, here's a bigger piece of the binding being held in place.  I'll glue it soon.  Before that I must complete the routing on the tail end that will have some of the same inlay as the back.

Trimming the Panels

After gluing the back panel on, I cut both the front and back panels to size using a flush trim router bit.

Gluing the Back Panel

To glue the back panel in place, the book I am following recommended using a thick rubber strip that is long enough to wrap around the body of the guitar to provide uniform pressure all the way around.  Since I don't have such a strip and could not find one, I did it with clamps.  I practiced with a dry fit to see if the clamps would work and it seemed like it was okay.  So I spread glue on all the kerfing and clamped it in place.  I just did this a few minutes ago and so I hope I don't have any surprises when it is dry.

A couple of my clamps don't have soft rubber pads and so I put some scrap would in to protect the back panel.

Back Spine Inlay

Before gluing the back onto the rest of the body, I added an inlay on the seam in the back panel.  I purchased the inlay and slotted a 5/16" wide grove for it using a router.  This should have been done before I braced the back panel, but I did not think of it.  It was a bit harder with the curve in the panel, but not too bad.

I'll put a matching strip of inlay on the bottom, or tail, once the panels are trimmed to size.

Adding the Kerf Strip for the Back Panel

Before the back panel can be glued on, the sides need to be lined with kerf strips.  The strips were cut like the ones for the front and glued on lined up with the open edge.

Once all the edges are lined, everything needs to be sanded flat so the back panel will fit correctly.